We four COGs (Cool Old Gals) from Ngaaruawaahia arrived back from our trip of a lifetime to Vietnam in the early morning of Saturday 10 January. How calm and empty the streets of our town seemed in comparison to the endless stream of beeping cars and scooters that typify Vietnamese city life.
We were tired but very happy to be home after three non-stop weeks travelling from north to south – from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon). During that time, we visited many of the main tourist hot spots of Hanoi, Hoi An, Hue, Da Nang, Saigon, Can Tho and Da Lat.
Despite being somewhat older ladies (88, 82, 75 and 68), the only real difficulties we faced were getting in and out of taxis and vans, and climbing up and down innumerable steps – often with no handrails – to reach Buddhist temples and pagodas. Otherwise, we took it easy and ambled along at our own pace.
Our kind fellow travellers and guides kept a watchful eye on us, making sure we were all back on the bus and delivered to the correct hotel each night. We loved being treated with such respect. The Vietnamese treasure their elders and were very impressed by what they saw as our adventurous spirit and fortitude, which was rather nice.
Our first impression of Vietnam was sheer overwhelm. Packed streets, and a non-stop river of scooters flowing steadily through the narrow alleyways of Hanoi’s Old Quarter, where everything from a single stick of incense to high-class furniture can be bought.
Crossing the road required walking at a steady speed so the scooters could weave around us. The mortal sin was stopping halfway or trying to run. You simply put your hand up and walked through the traffic with imagined confidence. Terrifying but we got used to it quickly because there is no other choice. We soon latched onto the locals. They knew what they were doing.
Every square inch of space in the city has a purpose. Goods from thousands of tiny shopfronts spill onto the pavements, where scooters are parked tightly side-by-side, leaving only inches for pedestrians. We eventually gave up and walked on the road, trusting we wouldn’t be wiped out by a scooter. We weren’t.
Our second big impression was the kindness and gentleness of the Vietnamese people. Yes, the vendors try to sell you things but a firm “no thank you” and a smile is enough. They don’t hassle you. The staff in our accommodation were charming and helpful, some taking quite a shine to us. It really warmed the heart.
Food was the third “in-your-face” aspect of Vietnam. It’s everywhere. Those precious square inches of pavement are filled with hawkers selling banh mi (baguettes stuffed with meats, vegetables and herbs) or pho, a hot fragrant broth with meat, vegetables and rice noodles. Both cost around the equivalent of $3.
Others sell dried frog or crispy snake snacks. Not our first choice, to be honest. The sights, sounds and aromas of the night markets were thrilling and so completely different from what we are used to.
And the coffee… oh my. We thought we were rather fancy back home with our lattes and cappuccinos but in Vietnam we were offered Vietnamese coffee with condensed milk, coconut coffee with coconut ice, egg coffee (thick and eggnog-y), and salted coffee (which sounds dreadful but think how good salted chocolate is and apply that to coffee).
We also saw civet coffee of which Vietnam is the biggest producer. The beans are fed to poor weasels (civet cats), retrieved post-digestion, washed and roasted. We drew the line at that.
In Ho Chi Minh City, we learnt a lot about what the Vietnamese call the American War. We visited the Cu Chi tunnels where Viet Cong soldiers lived in a vast underground network, using stealth, sniper fire and deadly ground traps.
We noticed how young many of the jungle trees were. The original forest was destroyed by Agent Orange over 50 years ago and the effects (including genetic deformities) are still evident today.
The Vietnamese proudly say they won the war against the Americans, which they did. Today, Vietnam is a unified country ruled by a non-oppressive form of communism. People are free to run businesses but have no say over who governs them. It is a one-party system that provides political stability, where long-term decisions are made and carried through without being undone by the next government.
Future party leaders are identified young within the civil service. Those with potential are educated – often abroad – then given positions of responsibility and closely observed. Of the few who rise to the top, only the strongest candidate is eventually chosen as party secretary. A very long training process, resulting (one hopes) in the best of the best.
It seems to be working. Vietnam has now outpaced Thailand economically and has virtually taken over much of the tourist market because it is still cheap, safe and friendly. The government is also backing the manufacture of quality, lower-cost electric vehicles for the domestic market, with plans to export them worldwide, taking on Tesla.
From a war-torn land to an astonishing economic success in under 50 years, Vietnam is a real success story. If you get the chance, go.
We COGs had a blast and would happily recommend travelling with Unique Tours, a Hanoi-based Vietnamese company. Their organisation was first-class and the cost beyond reasonable. All itineraries are customisable and can start on any date.
Excluding international flights, our 19-day tour cost about $3,000 each, including accommodation, transfers, taxis, tour tickets and two internal flights. We also added three days in Da Lat in the mountains for cooler weather.
It’s never too late to start travelling. Don’t just think about it — phone the travel agent today.
Tell them the COGs sent you.
by Meg Daly
